GNH, American Dream & Real Life Part-1

Gross National Happiness, Bhutan: an alternative to GDP inspired by Buddhist principles. (Photo credit: iied.org)

Bhutan (Photo credit: babasteve)

Please forgive me: I’m a Hungarian ‘chilip’ who doesn’t permanently live in Bhutan and I’m not a GNH expert. However, I dare to offer some additional thoughts to the healthy discussion provoked by Dr David L Luechauer in The Bhutanese hoping to contribute to Bhutan’s future development.

Some of you may think I am trying to defend GNH and Bhutan against critics. This is not the case, because GNH or Bhutan doesn’t need my defense and protection. Personally, I can’t see any problem with Dr David criticizing the GNH practice without knowing the concept well while relying on his personal and limited experiences. I keep hearing from my Bhutanese friends that he probably did a good service to Bhutan when raising some valid points. He may even be right saying that widespread domestic practice should have predated any extensive international promotion. I can’t really judge.

What I know for sure though is that GNH provides inspiration to many people outside Bhutan, including my friends in Europe, who explore alternative ways of organizing our societies. I say ‘inspiration›’which doesn’t mean that we would like to take GNH into our countries as it is. No, we want to study the concept, see the results and challenges in Bhutan, and then figure out what we can learn from it and how we can apply the findings. Doing so, we also hope to help Bhutan improve and apply GNH.

In my article, I hope to add new dimensions to the conversation by focusing on three things: 1) the universal gap between theory and practice; 2) proposed solutions to Bhutan by Dr David and their viability; and 3) the business sector’s role in further developing Bhutan.

English: Tashichho Dzong, Thimphu, Bhutan. It is a Buddhist monastery and seat of the Druk Desi, the head of Bhutan's civil government. Français : Le monastère fortifié de Tashichho Dzong, à Thimphu, au Bhoutan. Le Tashichho Dzong est le siège du Druk Desi, chef du gouvernement civil du Bhoutan. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Theory Vs. Practice Gap

I don’t know Dr David, but he may have fallen into the trap several ‘chilips’ did before: prior to his arrival, in his mind, he may have constructed his own Shangri-la or Happiness State with ever-smiling citizens governed by an enlightened policy called GNH. Then, he got disappointed when he found a real country with real people struggling with real everyday problems. And then he concluded that his home country is still much better.

When I was 18 years old I fell into the same trap, but my constructed Shangri-la was the United State. I was living in Hungary in Eastern Europe under a ‘light communist’ regime and for my birthday I received a Big Mac from one of my best friends. He queued for hours in front of the first newly opened McDonald›s in the country and I still remember the thrill I had just looking at this small piece of food on the dinner table. It was a precious sacred object, much more than a sandwich. For me, it was the American Dream itself.

Bhutanese thanka of Mt. Meru and the Buddhist Universe, 19th century (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This happened in 1988 and two years later we had democratic elections and open market and later I got my dream job at Levi’s, the American jeans company. Today, I laugh when I recall the Big Mac story. Since then, I have grown up and learned to see the difference between the American Dream and a hamburger. In other words, I know the difference between marketing and reality. I know that the American Dream, which is globally marketed by brand builders, politicians, Hollywood and many US citizens, is not fully practiced in its home country neither. I›ve been there and I›ve seen it. It›s a political slogan or a well-promoted philosophy, if you wish. Just like the ‘Free Market Economy’ which doesn’t exist anywhere due to government’s intervention, protection and subsidies, big business monopolies, and human nature.

Bhutan | Old meets new in Thimpu (Photo credit: simonjp)

LONDON, ENGLAND - AUGUST 01: Sherab Zam of Bhutan competes in her Women's Individual Archery 1/32 Eliminations match against Khatuna Lorig of United States during the Women's Individual Archery on Day 5 of the London 2012 Olympic Games at Lord's Cricket Ground on August 1, 2012 in London, England. (Image credit: Getty Images via @daylife)

And this discrepancy between a well-rounded concept and rugged reality naturally applies to GNH, too. And that’s fine. I am afraid that we, adults, have to accept that GNH and the American Dream are both aspirational concepts of great minds which are marketed by talented political leaders at home and abroad, while imperfectly implemented anywhere.

Considering this, one may ask how come that US politicians and Dr David are promoting the concept of American Dream or Free Market Economy or Equality or Democracy across the globe if they are not fully practiced at home? How about gun violence, crime, unemployment, homelessness, obesity, environmental degradation, stress, depression, drug and alcohol abuse, debt, high military spending, increasingly limited social mobility, money-driven politics, anti-market government subsidies, stagnating middle-class income, and growing gap between super-rich and the rest of the US?  The US is no longer what it used to be. Shouldn›t they just get their own house in order first before trying to sell their concepts to the world?

English: Dzong (fort) in Punakha (a place name) in central Bhutan. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

You might be surprised, but I think they shouldn’t. I think Americans and Europeans – including Dr David – have the right to promote whatever values, concepts, ideas and philosophies they think are right - regardless of their implementation. It can be the American Dream, Free Market Economy, Democracy, The Invisible Hand, Individualism, GNP, Well-being, Christianity, Human Rights, Peace&Love, Tree Hugging, Philanthropy or Superman. These constructions of the mind are all imperfect when practiced, but still it’s worth globally debating their viability and implementation.

On the other hand, all men and women are born equal, not only Americans or Europeans. If Dr David has the right to promote his values and criticize those of others – and I strongly believe he has – others have the same right, too. We all have the right to explore alternatives or adjustments to the American Dream, Baker&McKenzie, IMF, Hollywood, or Wall Street without immediately being labeled as communist, Marxist, fundamentalist environmentalist, anti-capitalist, or anti-Superman.

Trip to Bhutan (Photo credit: Chris Guillebeau)

And I believe that GNH as a concept is potentially one of the many viable alternatives to our current global socio-economic system in crisis. Again: it’s worth discussing it as a concept globally among many others even in more developed countries regardless of its implementation in Bhutan.

But, as Dr David rightly suggested, we shouldn’t get stuck in discussing philosophy too much, but let’s pull up our sleeves and get to work.

On Dr David’s Proposed Solutions to Bhutan

Going beyond his personal insights about GNH implementation and Bhutan’s economic and social challenges such as alcoholism, I reviewed what Dr David was actually proposing to the Bhutanese and I had a hard time to find his solutions either original or applicable or fair. Some seem to make perfect sense like hard work or better public toilets or curbing alcoholism. Others are less convincing. Given our limited time, I just want to comment on some of his controversial proposals:

1. His Proposal: Bhutanese should get to Hard Work to Build the Economy and Infrastructure.

English: "Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Product" by Jigme Singye Wangchuck, king of Bhutan. Slogan on a wall in Thimphu's School of Traditional Arts (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I think Bhutanese farmers work hard enough to be appreciated. I think Bhutanese craftsmen work hard enough to be appreciated. I think Bhutanese doctors, forest engineers, teachers, shoe cleaners, tourist guides, taxi drivers, etc all work hard enough to be appreciated. Constructing roads, buildings, and hydropower stations in Bhutan is mostly done by Indian companies with Indian workers. They have the technology and willing manpower Bhutan lacks, so they are contracted to build. I don’t see it as a problem, if properly managed.

Building an economy takes not only hard work, but time, money, natural resources and favorable trading opportunities. And protection against cheap and or better foreign products until the domestic industry is strong enough to compete. This complex process requires much more than the ‘Just do it’ attitude.

 (Reproduced from The Bhutanese)

To be continued

The writer used to work for Levi Strauss and he’s currently an independent Corporate Responsibility Advisor in Europe and a volunteer business coach in Bhutan. He’s also founding president of the Hungarian Bhutan Friendship Society. He can be contacted at valcsicsak.zoltan@gmail.com

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Leatherd Philanthropists

(Uniquely Bhutanese, a Motorcycle Club Donning Leathers Does Charity- Welcome to Gross National Happiness)a

In 2008, a whirlwind of change swept through the tiny Kingdome of Bhutan. The change was as silent as the mountains that stand sentinel over the kingdom. It was welcomed with open arms and warm hearts. It was a national celebration, unprecedented and unrivaled anywhere in the world, as a new and dynamic crown prince was enthroned the Fifth Dragon King on the eve of the centennial year of the Wangchuck dynasty.

Dawa,a former alcoholic, Initiated Help-Shoe-Bhutan. (He's mended, heeled, & resoled about more than a thousand pairs of throw-away shoes that were distributed by Bhutan Dragons MC in some of the most impoverished corners of the kingdom)

The Club Carries a Banner Thanking Everyone Who Helps

The Rides Are Well-Organized, But Then, The Road Is The Boss

A Truck Ferries Food Essentials For a Specific Few Impoverished Families

Its a Hands On Approach

Receipts To Keep The Books

This Kids Had Polio. They Got the First Pairs (Their First)

Yet Another Polio-Afflicted Bare-Footed Boy

This Kid Enjoyed a Pair of Fresh Sneakers

It Was a Footy-Day

Recipients With The BDMC

They Came Small...

Old & Tattered

And Recycling Hearts Did the Rest

Wives of the Samtse Constables

The Old

Its Spanking New

A Day of Foot-Joy!

School Kids Always get Curious & Close

Khoma- a Very Remote Hamlet

Thimphu's Expressway

The Club House- a Shack Called Nobu Really!

BDMC with Monks From a Gelephu Monastery 

Writ Large Are the Names of those Who Sponsor... James & Nicola

Central-Eastern Bhutan, Langthang

Wangdiphodrang

Finding the Right Pairs Can be a .....

These Banners always Come Back Battered!

Still Hunting Cinderella's Other...

Gelephu In The South

Monks Come From Mostly Poor Families

The coronation saw the emergence of several bodies and organization, all intended to commemorate the great event of the coronation of a young and dynamic king. The missions and visions shared a common factor – to keep alive the memory of 2008 for posterity. Authors flourished, with books, songs and dances and the renovation and dedication of religious and other important edifices. That apart, a small band of brothers in arms also wanted to contribute in their unique and ingenious way.

It was motorcycle philanthropy, conceived and crafted in ways that further surmount the uniqueness of Bhutan. This was not about boisterous young boys tearing up the asphalt or pot-bellied beer guzzlers roaring through the countryside. This was the Bhutan Dragons Motorcycle Club, the first of its kind. The dragon signifies not just the nation but also the responsibility that it entails, as set by the nation's leaders. The club, and not gang, as members are quick to point out, was established with a simple purpose but one that was designed to contribute something meaningful, no matter how small, to the needy.

This was about purposeful riding – this was Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, if you will. 

A motorcycle is every kid’s dream and Bhutan is no different, as horses gradually gave way to paved roads. The thrill of that throbbing pulsation in between the legs however ebbs with time and age. Not to mention career, wife and kids. But this was more than just sweeping the ever-twisting solitary highways. It was about bringing a common passion in the form of the Royal Enfield Bullet Motorcycles back to the fold.

Pit Stop at the Scenic Dochu La Pass (3050m)

In the Bhutanese context, a motorcycle club may sound strange. But this was again part and parcel of the changing Bhutanese landscape. The important factor was incorporating this love unto the bigger picture – of a nation in the pursuit of Gross National Happiness. The club is about preserving the sanctity of the past, encapsulating the present and envisaging the needs of the future. Its vision is as wholesome as the goal of the nation. It is more than the club slogan of ‘Love to Ride, Ride to Love,’ with a desire to spread a small measure of happiness on wheel power.

Yet Another Pass... The Thrumshingla Pass (3750m)

And so how did the Bhutan Dragons Motorcycle Club come about?

The concept was well received by friends more than eager to throw in their lots. The brainchild of a few grew dramatically, leading to the formal establishment of the club. Structurally, a chairman of repute was appointed with the club run by a president, and the rides controlled by a front and flank man. Membership is not open to everyone and stringent rules ensure that the club lives up to its reputation. Members who fit the bill are formally initiated into the club through a religious ceremony. This done, they can proudly don the club insignia and also have riding initials of their choice on their jackets.

The BDMC's 13th Ride Featured in Student's Digest, a Quarterly Youth

At present, there are two clubhouses, one in Thimphu and another in Paro. Thus on October 17, 2008, the riders kick-started their machines from the Thimphu club house, the club’s HQ now called Nobu, for the first initiation ceremony that was held in Paro. Motorists and passerby watched bewildered as more than fifteen motorcycles roared through town and country at a respectable pace. The club’s motto is not to shock but to stealthily steal their way into the hearts of the people. A small group of riders from the Paro Chapter welcomed the team halfway and escorted them to the clubhouse, where preparations for the elaborate initiation ceremony were in hasty progress.

Typical Help- Food Rations, Blankets, Essentials

The ceremony was not about the last man standing after a boozing daredevilry. Rather, it was maroon–clad monks who performed a religious ceremony for club’s goodwill. The ceremony required the initiates to take oaths to abide by the club’s charter. The chairman, Dasho Ugyen Tshechup Dorji, a prominent member of the business community and a huge supporter of philanthropic endeavors then presented the ceremonial white scarves. The chairman had nothing but words of encouragement for conceiving such a venture and his personal support and assistance in that light.

As More Folks Have Begun to Contribute, the Spread is gettin' Larger

Bhutan being Bhutan, an occasion would not go bereft of parties; hence the ceremony was followed by a lavish feast, complete with song and dance. The riders were more than happy to stretch their legs to keep abreast with the local dancers. The merriment went well into the night, but the riders had to grab some sleep from the mission ahead, a pinnacle climb to a monastery on a steep ridge. It is the mission actually upon which the club is grounded. And the first one did call for some daredevilry. Early the next morning, the riders took on a steep rough road that would compete with X-Sports. The destination was a beautiful traditional temple perched on the promontory of a vertical hill some 45 minutes up in the clouds.

The Final Banner

The ride was grueling and nerve-racking, but this was the path the club had chosen and so it was. The ride must go on. Up atop the hill, outside the temple, young monks gazed down the trail, hoping to catch a glimpse reminiscent of Spielberg’s Encounters of the Third Kind. The serpentine trail was made in hell but once the pinnacle was mounted, it was all made in heaven! The caretaker and the young monks and novices had prepared a modest luncheon, and at that altitude and with all that energy spent, the food was ambrosia.

Member then offered prayers in the monastery’s inner sanctums and work on the mission began in earnest. Mindful of the high altitude and the biting winter creeping in, the club had brought warm jackets for the young novitiates. It was hard not to notice the sense of joy and gratitude as they received the unexpected gifts. The caretaker said he was rather surprised by motorcyclists bearing gifts for his monks but extremely grateful for the good work they were doing.

Mission accomplished, the riders made the trip back, some barely managing the unforgiving gradient.

But the backup plan always does the trick, picking up the errant befallen bikers and their wounded horses. It’s been now officially 15 Charity Rides around the kingdom’s boondocks, and in touching five years and some thousands of burnt kilometers later, the Bhutan Dragons Motorcycle Club keep winning hearts wherever they go. Should you ride a motorcycle today in the kingdom, except plenty of warm smiles and welcome doors, for that’s what good deeds do, culminate more good deeds. The rides with the dragons can be arranged especially if you are the motorcycling loving kind with a Zen for helping the less fortunate.

Update: The club has now 52 members and international chapters, small groups of individuals and friends in Australia, Austria, Japan, India, The UK and Germany. The idea is very simple: You do what you love doing in between pit stops and impoverished hamlets, help the needy with whatever you can spare. All the recipients are sought out and a bookkeeper keeps the tight budget for the minimal requisite of four charity rides a year. All members contribute and chip in by working with other socially useful organizations and initiatives.

The Bhutan Dragons MC blogs their Samaritan escapades at (www.bhutandragons.blogspot.com) or (www.facebook.com/bhutandragons) and are sponsored by Adventure Roots, who have the same principles and community beliefs by helping folks through the grassroots. We can also arrange rides for those who like more than a little wheel power.

*For The Spirited Traveler


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